Copyright 1994 by Scott Hays
Magazine: Orange Coast
Topic: Ixtapa Zihuatenejo
Byline: Scott Hays

Picture yourself driving along the foothills of the Sierra Madre Mountains, through the dense jungle and coconut palms on the west coast of Guerrero, to a stretch of pristine Mexican shoreline surrounded by vast hills of lush foliage, green and well-watered.

After a two-hour flight, you could be tossing back funny tropical drinks and swaying gently in a braided hammock that overlooks the secluded Vista Hermosa Beach. Life in Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo, Mexico, offers just the right balance of nature, comfort and seclusion. Although these two areas are listed as one, they are distinctly two separate vacation spots.

A decade ago, few people had heard of Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo. In the old days, it was nothing more than a stretch of white sand beaches and a primitive fishing village, known only by a handful of natives. But since the charms of tourism were rediscovered by the Mexican government—thanks to a combination of low oil prices, high unemployment and a staggering foreign debt—these two sprawling bay communities have attracted the attention of international travelers and served as a popular weekend resort from Mexico City.

Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo lies roughly 150 miles north of Acapulco. It is a two-town, world-class resort that offers all the amenities of "civilized living" in the midst of secluded and spectacular tropical beauty, relatively unspoiled by tourism. Most of the coast remains undeveloped, although completely accessible. FONATUR, Mexico's National Trust Fund for Tourism Development, has taken a step forward to boost tourism revenues by building connecting highways and roads. Special care was taken to preserve the area's natural beauty.

Last year, some 300,000 tourists visited the area, spending more than $84 million. These figures attest to its magnificence as a flourishing new area to see and discover—especially now that Zihuatanejo's old airstrip has been replaced by a modern international airport, with air services from many U.S. destinations.

This peaceful resort and old fishing village are naturally attractive and culturally exciting. Cliffs, wild with tropical plant life, drop starkly to secluded beaches with gentle waters. Roughly 24 miles of palm-lined beaches and coves in Ixtapa are lined with luxury hotels like the El Presidente, Krystal and the Camino Real.

The nearby coastal town of Zihuatanejo, which is separated from Ixtapa by a headland called Punta Esteban, adds a slice of Mexico's historical legacy. For the more adventuresome, there's parasailing, water skiing and windsurfing, not to mention a Club Med at the north end of the bay.

Those who like to explore should take an excursion of Ixtapa Island. A pleasant little wildlife sanctuary (home to hundreds of wild birds and exotic animals) that's good for an afternoon of snorkeling or scuba diving. Boats can be chartered from Playa Quieta. Equipment can be rented. Isla Grande is another spectacular island about 11 miles west of the port area.

Like anywhere else in Mexico, there's bound to be construction that's either going up or down. But off the main roads, there's extraordinarily beautiful beaches waiting to be discovered.

Zihuatanejo, for example, has a number of beaches. Along the Playa Principal are most of the beach front restaurants and small hotels. Playa Maderas is a favorite among campers. Following the curve of the bay is La Ropa Beach, which, legend has it, was so named after a Chinese vessel was wrecked and bundles of clothes (ropa, in Spanish) washed ashore. And don't forget to visit Las Gatas, arguably the most beautiful beach in Zihuatanejo , with its coral reef and clear-blue water. It is the least accessible of all the beaches, but can be reached by boat.

Visitors who want to get away from the Southern California hubbub can stay at any one of the several hotels along the main, mile-long Playa del Palmar beach or the Camino Real Ixtapa, a 12-story, architecturally exciting structure that cascades down a coastal hillside to a private beach. Palapas, or palm-thatched umbrellas, help shade sunbathers. And don't be alarmed by the bright-colored insects and frogs in the hallways. Especially frogs. It's part of the charm.

Most of the hotels have large, fresh-water pools with swim-up bars, poolside and beachside restaurants and other luxuries to make their guests comfortable. Some, like Camino Real, rent four passenger jeeps to go exploring. But be sure to have a full tank of gas and a willingness to venture beyond the well-beaten tourist path.

Fine seafood restaurants can be found almost anywhere. For those who like to shop, the cobblestone streets of Zihuatanejo are great for Mexican handicrafts (Zihuatanejo is about five miles from Ixtapa). In the village, entrepreneurs sell souvenirs such as clothes, custom jewelry, ceramics and glass. Along the central market, there's fresh fruit, fish and natives cooking tortillas and beans. More than 40,000 people live in town and it's no longer that little fishing village of old, but it has managed to retain its charm while growing in the shadow of its neighbor.

At night, the shoreline is unusually peaceful. Lie back. Relax. All the basic amenities of the big resort are here in rustic form. The area's greatest assets are its natural beauty and the weather. Year-round temperatures range in the low 80s. The jungles can be unbearably hot and humid, but usually the climate is pleasantly tropical and the surf warm.

When it's time for an evening of fun, there's plenty of discos. At Carlos 'N Charlies, there's a dance platform that sits out over the beach. For more elegant surroundings, try Christine's. If spending the evening out, take a taxi.

Mexicana has flights to Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo from LAX, as do other airlines—thanks to relaxed commercial air travel restrictions.